How to Choose the Right Bicycle Tire

1. Understanding Tire Sizes

Bicycle tire sizes can be confusing because three different standards exist. Understanding these is the first step to finding a compatible tire.

Or you can skip this section and just use our clever search bar to find right sized tires based on your current tire size here.

ETRTO (ISO) – The Universal Standard

ETRTO (European Tire and Rim Technical Organization) is the most accurate sizing system. It uses two numbers: width-BSD (Bead Seat Diameter).

If you know your ETRTO size, you can always find compatible tires. The BSD must match exactly, while width can vary within your rim's compatible range.

Metric Sizes (700x35C)

Common on road and gravel bikes, metric sizes show approximate outer diameter × width + a letter from the traditional French sizing system. In modern usage, the full code (like 700C or 650B) is often used as a shorthand for a specific rim size (BSD), but it’s not as precise as ETRTO.

Note: 700C tires have an ETRTO BSD of 622mm. The "700" doesn't directly convert to millimeters.

Imperial Sizes (28 x 1.40)

Still used on many European city bikes and older bicycles, imperial sizes show diameter × width in inches.

Warning: Imperial sizes can be misleading! "28 inch" and "29 inch" tires often use the same 622mm BSD rim – they're interchangeable despite different names.

Quick Size Conversion

2. Choosing the Right Width

Tire width affects comfort, speed, grip, and handling. The best width depends on your riding style and what your rim can accommodate.

Rim Compatibility

Every rim has a range of compatible tire widths. Installing a tire that's too narrow or too wide for your rim can cause:

• Poor handling and unpredictable cornering
• Increased risk of pinch flats
• Tire blowouts in extreme cases

Check your rim's inner width (usually printed on the rim or in the bike's specs) and consult the manufacturer's tire width recommendations.

Width Recommendations by Riding Style

The "Wider is Better" Trend

Modern research shows that wider tires don't necessarily mean slower speeds. At the same pressure, a wider tire:

• Has a shorter, wider contact patch (often lower rolling resistance)
• Absorbs road vibrations better (less energy lost to rider fatigue)
• Can run at lower pressures for more comfort without sacrificing speed

Professional road cyclists have moved from 23mm to 28mm+ tires. Consider going wider than you think you need!

3. Tread Patterns Explained

The tread pattern affects grip, rolling resistance, and suitability for different surfaces.

Slick Tires

Best for: Road cycling, smooth pavement
Completely smooth or with minimal pattern. Despite looking "slippery," slicks provide the best grip on paved surfaces because they maximize rubber contact with the road.

Semi-Slick Tires

Best for: Mixed terrain, light gravel, commuting
Smooth center for low rolling resistance with textured shoulders for cornering grip on loose surfaces. A versatile choice for riders who encounter varied terrain.

File Tread

Best for: Gravel, hardpacked trails
Fine, consistent texture across the tire. Provides grip on packed dirt and gravel while maintaining reasonable efficiency on pavement.

Knobby Tires

Best for: Mountain biking, loose surfaces, mud
Raised rubber blocks that dig into soft surfaces. Essential for off-road riding but slow and noisy on pavement. Choose knob size based on terrain:

• Small knobs: Hardpack, dry trails
• Medium knobs: Mixed conditions
• Large/aggressive knobs: Mud, loose rocks, wet roots

4. Tire Compounds & Durability

The rubber compound affects grip, durability, and rolling resistance. Most tires balance these factors differently.

Durometer Rating

Rubber hardness is measured in durometer (Shore A scale):

• Soft (50-60a): Maximum grip, faster wear, higher rolling resistance
• Medium (60-70a): Balanced performance for most riders
• Hard (70-80a): Long-lasting, lower grip, efficient rolling

Dual/Triple Compound

Premium tires often use different compounds in different areas:

• Center: Harder compound for durability and low rolling resistance
• Shoulders: Softer compound for cornering grip
• Base: Sometimes a third compound under the tread for puncture protection

5. Puncture Protection Options

Nothing ruins a ride like a flat. Here's how different protection technologies work:

Puncture-Resistant Belts

A layer of tough material (usually polyamide, Kevlar®, or Vectran) under the tread. The most common and effective protection for thorns, glass, and road debris.

• Schwalbe GreenGuard: 3mm rubber layer + reinforcement
• Continental SafetySystem: Breaker layer under tread
• Maxxis SilkShield: Under-tread puncture protection

Tubeless Setup

Running without inner tubes using sealant that automatically plugs small punctures. Benefits include:

• Self-sealing of small holes while riding
• Lower pressures possible (more comfort, grip)
• No pinch flats

Requires tubeless-compatible rims and tires, plus periodic sealant replacement.

6. Matching Tire to Riding Style

Road Cycling

Priorities: Speed, weight, grip in corners
Recommendations:

• Width: 25-32mm depending on rim and preference
• Tread: Slick or minimal pattern
• Compound: High performance (soft to medium)

Gravel & Adventure

Priorities: Versatility, puncture resistance, grip on mixed surfaces
Recommendations:

• Width: 35-45mm
• Tread: File tread or small knobs
• Consider: Tubeless setup for lower pressures

Commuting & Touring

Priorities: Durability, puncture protection, all-weather grip
Recommendations:

• Width: 32-42mm
• Tread: Light pattern for wet grip
• Compound: Harder, more durable

Mountain Biking

Priorities: Grip, durability, terrain-specific performance
Recommendations:

• Width: Depends on frame clearance and discipline
• Tread: Matched to terrain (XC, Trail, Enduro, DH)
• Consider: Tubeless essential for most MTB riding